:root {
  --paper: #F5F0E6; --paper-2: #EBE4D5; --ink: #1A1D36; --ink-2: #50536B;
  --red: #BE3A1A; --coral: #FF9B7B; --night: #141629; --line: rgba(26, 29, 54, .16);
  --serif: "Literata", Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --sans: "Onest", system-ui, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", sans-serif;
  --mono: "JetBrains Mono", ui-monospace, Menlo, monospace;
}
*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-behavior: smooth; scroll-padding-top: 6rem; }
body {
  margin: 0; color: var(--ink); font: 400 1.0625rem/1.65 var(--sans); -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;
  background: var(--paper) url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='180' height='180'%3E%3Cfilter id='n'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='.9' numOctaves='2'/%3E%3CfeColorMatrix values='0 0 0 0 .1 0 0 0 0 .11 0 0 0 0 .21 0 0 0 .07 0'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Crect width='180' height='180' filter='url(%23n)'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");
}
img { max-width: 100%; }
a { color: inherit; text-underline-offset: .2em; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; }
a:hover { color: var(--red); }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--red); outline-offset: 3px; border-radius: 2px; }
h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: -.02em; line-height: 1.08; margin: 0; text-wrap: balance; }
h1 { font-size: clamp(2.5rem, 6vw, 4.75rem); }
h2 { font-size: clamp(1.75rem, 3.3vw, 2.6rem); }
h3 { font-size: 1.4rem; line-height: 1.2; }
h1 em, h2 em { font-style: italic; }
h1 em {
  padding-bottom: .1em; white-space: nowrap;
  background: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 200 12' preserveAspectRatio='none'%3E%3Cpath d='M2 8c30-6 52 4 82-1s58-5 114 1' fill='none' stroke='%23BE3A1A' stroke-width='2.5' stroke-linecap='round'/%3E%3C/svg%3E") no-repeat 0 100% / 100% .22em;
}
p { margin: 0 0 1.1em; }
.wrap { width: min(1180px, 100% - 2.5rem); margin-inline: auto; }
.eyebrow { font: 500 .74rem/1.5 var(--mono); letter-spacing: .09em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--red); margin: 0 0 1.25rem; }
.eyebrow a { text-decoration: none; }
.lede { font-size: clamp(1.1rem, 1.6vw, 1.3rem); line-height: 1.55; color: var(--ink-2); max-width: 38em; }
.skip { position: absolute; left: -999px; }
.skip:focus { left: 1rem; top: 1rem; z-index: 20; background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); padding: .6rem 1rem; }
mark.todo { background: #FFE08A; color: #3A2A00; padding: 0 .3em; border-radius: 2px; font-style: normal; }

/* Buttons */
.btn { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .6rem; background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); padding: .95rem 1.5rem; border-radius: 999px; font: 600 1rem/1.2 var(--sans); text-decoration: none; transition: background .2s; }
.btn::after { content: "→"; transition: transform .2s; }
.btn:hover { background: var(--red); color: var(--paper); }
.btn:hover::after { transform: translateX(4px); }
.btn-sm { padding: .65rem 1.1rem; font-size: .9rem; }
.btn-light { background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); }
.btn-light:hover { background: var(--coral); color: var(--night); }
.actions { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 1rem 1.75rem; margin: 2rem 0; }
.link { font-weight: 600; }

/* Header */
.site-header { position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 10; background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--paper) 90%, transparent); backdrop-filter: blur(10px); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.bar { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 1.5rem; padding: .8rem 0; }
.logo { font: 500 1.25rem/1.1 var(--serif); letter-spacing: -.01em; text-decoration: none; margin: 0; }
.logo small { display: block; font: 500 .62rem/1.6 var(--mono); letter-spacing: .07em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-2); }
.site-header nav { display: flex; gap: 1.4rem; margin-left: auto; font-size: .95rem; }
.site-header nav a { text-decoration: none; white-space: nowrap; padding: .3rem 0; }
.site-header nav a[aria-current] { box-shadow: 0 2px 0 var(--red); }
.bar-end { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 1rem; }
.lang { font: 500 .8rem var(--mono); text-decoration: none; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 999px; padding: .4rem .7rem; }

/* Home hero */
.hero { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.2fr .8fr; gap: clamp(2rem, 6vw, 5.5rem); align-items: center; padding: clamp(2.5rem, 6vw, 5.5rem) 0 clamp(3.5rem, 7vw, 6rem); }
.hero-text > * { animation: rise .7s cubic-bezier(.2, .7, .2, 1) both; }
.hero-text > :nth-child(2) { animation-delay: .08s; }
.hero-text > :nth-child(3) { animation-delay: .16s; }
.hero-text > :nth-child(4) { animation-delay: .24s; }
.hero-text > :nth-child(5) { animation-delay: .32s; }
@keyframes rise { from { transform: translateY(14px); } } /* transform only: text is never hidden if the animation doesn't run */
.hero .lede { margin-top: 1.75rem; }
.disclosure { font-size: .9rem; line-height: 1.55; color: var(--ink-2); max-width: 36em; }
.portrait { margin: 0 14px 14px 0; position: relative; animation: rise .9s .2s cubic-bezier(.2, .7, .2, 1) both; }
.portrait::before { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; transform: translate(14px, 14px); border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); border-radius: 2px; }
.portrait img { display: block; position: relative; width: 100%; height: auto; aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; object-fit: cover; object-position: 50% 15%; border-radius: 2px; }
.portrait figcaption { position: absolute; left: -2.5rem; bottom: 12%; transform: rotate(-4deg); font: italic 500 1.1rem/1.3 var(--serif); color: var(--red); background: var(--paper); padding: .45rem .9rem; border-radius: 2px; box-shadow: 0 6px 18px rgba(20, 22, 41, .14); }

/* Ticker of words that don't translate */
.ticker { overflow: hidden; border-block: 1px solid var(--line); padding: 1rem 0; font: italic 400 1.35rem var(--serif); color: var(--ink-2); }
.ticker div { display: flex; gap: 3rem; width: max-content; animation: tick 60s linear infinite; }
.ticker span:nth-child(even) { color: var(--red); }
@keyframes tick { to { transform: translateX(-50%); } }

/* Phrasebook */
.phrasebook { background: var(--night); color: var(--paper); padding: clamp(4rem, 9vw, 7rem) 0; }
.phrasebook .eyebrow, .cta .eyebrow { color: var(--coral); }
.phrasebook-head { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.3fr .7fr; gap: 2rem 4rem; align-items: end; }
.phrasebook-head p { color: #C9C8D6; max-width: 34em; margin: 1.25rem 0 0; }
.gloss { font: 400 .85rem/1.5 var(--mono); color: #C9C8D6; border-left: 2px solid var(--coral); padding-left: 1.25rem; }
.gloss span { display: inline-block; margin-right: 1.5rem; }
.gloss b { display: block; font: 400 1.5rem var(--serif); color: var(--paper); }
.gloss p { margin: .6rem 0 0; font: italic 400 1.1rem var(--serif); color: var(--coral); }
.phrases { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 0 4rem; margin-top: 3rem; align-items: start; }
.phrases details { border-top: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .16); padding: 1.3rem 0; }
.phrases summary { list-style: none; cursor: pointer; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; gap: 1rem; font: 400 clamp(1.3rem, 2.3vw, 1.85rem)/1.2 var(--serif); }
.phrases summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.phrases summary::after { content: "translate →"; font: 500 .68rem var(--mono); letter-spacing: .09em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--coral); white-space: nowrap; }
.phrases details[open] summary::after { content: "close ×"; }
.phrases summary:hover { color: var(--coral); }
.phrases details p { margin: .8rem 0 0; font: italic 400 1.15rem/1.5 var(--serif); color: var(--coral); }
.phrasebook .fineprint { color: #9B9AB0; margin-top: 2.5rem; }
.fineprint { font-size: .88rem; color: var(--ink-2); max-width: 46em; }

/* Editorial rows: heading left, content right */
.row { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 2fr; gap: 1.5rem clamp(2rem, 6vw, 5rem); padding: clamp(3rem, 6vw, 5rem) 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.row > div > :last-child { margin-bottom: 0; }
.row h3 { margin: 2rem 0 .6rem; }
.row h3:first-child { margin-top: 0; }
.page-hero { padding: clamp(3rem, 7vw, 6rem) 0 clamp(2.5rem, 5vw, 4rem); }
.page-hero h1 { max-width: 15em; }
.page-hero .lede { margin-top: 1.75rem; }
.ticks { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0 0 1.25rem; }
.ticks li { padding: .7rem 0 .7rem 2rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); position: relative; }
.ticks li::before { content: "✓"; position: absolute; left: 0; color: var(--red); font-weight: 600; }
.pillars { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: 2rem; margin-top: 2rem; }
.pillars h3 { margin: 0 0 .5rem; }
.pillars p { font-size: .98rem; color: var(--ink-2); margin: 0; }
.pillars > div { border-top: 2px solid var(--ink); padding-top: 1rem; }

/* Cards */
.cards { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-right: 0; margin-top: 2.5rem; }
.cards a { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: .8rem; padding: 2rem 1.5rem; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); text-decoration: none; transition: background .2s, color .2s; }
.cards a:hover { background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); }
.cards a:hover p, .cards a:hover .num { color: var(--coral); }
.cards .num { font: 500 .74rem var(--mono); color: var(--red); letter-spacing: .09em; }
.cards p { font-size: .96rem; color: var(--ink-2); margin: 0; flex: 1; }
.more { font: 500 .74rem var(--mono); letter-spacing: .09em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.more::after { content: " →"; }
.section { padding: clamp(3.5rem, 8vw, 6.5rem) 0; }
.section-head { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: end; gap: 2rem; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.section-head h2 { max-width: 16em; }

/* Stats, steps, note */
.stats { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); gap: 1.5rem; margin: 2.5rem 0 0; padding: 0; list-style: none; }
.stats li { border-top: 2px solid var(--ink); padding-top: .9rem; font-size: .92rem; color: var(--ink-2); line-height: 1.45; }
.stats b { display: block; font: 400 2.6rem/1 var(--serif); color: var(--ink); margin-bottom: .5rem; }
.steps { list-style: none; counter-reset: s; padding: 0; margin: 0; }
.steps li { counter-increment: s; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 3.5rem 1fr; padding: 1.4rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.steps li::before { content: "0" counter(s); font: 500 .8rem/2.2 var(--mono); color: var(--red); }
.steps h3 { margin: 0 0 .3rem; }
.steps p { margin: 0; color: var(--ink-2); }
.note { border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); border-radius: 2px; padding: clamp(1.5rem, 3vw, 2.25rem); background: var(--paper-2); box-shadow: 8px 8px 0 var(--ink); }
.note ul { margin: 1rem 0 0; padding-left: 1.2rem; }
.note li { margin-bottom: .4rem; }

/* FAQ */
.faq details { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.faq details:first-child { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.faq summary { list-style: none; cursor: pointer; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1.5rem; padding: 1.15rem 0; font: 400 1.25rem/1.3 var(--serif); }
.faq summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.faq summary::after { content: "+"; font: 400 1.4rem/1 var(--mono); color: var(--red); transition: transform .2s; }
.faq details[open] summary::after { transform: rotate(45deg); }
.faq details > div { padding: 0 2.5rem 1.4rem 0; color: var(--ink-2); max-width: 44em; }

/* Journal */
.posts { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 2.5rem 0 0; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: 2rem; }
.posts a { display: flex; flex-direction: column; height: 100%; text-decoration: none; border-top: 2px solid var(--ink); padding-top: 1.2rem; }
.posts .eyebrow { margin-bottom: .8rem; }
.posts h3 { margin-bottom: .7rem; }
.posts p { font-size: .96rem; color: var(--ink-2); flex: 1; }
.post { max-width: 46rem; padding: clamp(3rem, 7vw, 5.5rem) 0; }
.post h1 { font-size: clamp(2.2rem, 5vw, 3.6rem); }
.byline { color: var(--ink-2); font-size: .92rem; margin: 1.5rem 0 2.5rem; padding-bottom: 1.5rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.prose { font-size: 1.12rem; line-height: 1.75; }
.prose h2 { font-size: 1.75rem; margin: 2.5rem 0 .9rem; }
.prose blockquote { margin: 1.75rem 0; padding-left: 1.25rem; border-left: 2px solid var(--red); font: italic 400 1.3rem/1.5 var(--serif); }
.prose li { margin-bottom: .5rem; }
.post .fineprint { margin-top: 3rem; padding-top: 1.5rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }

/* CTA band */
.cta { background: var(--night); color: var(--paper); padding: clamp(4rem, 9vw, 7rem) 0; }
.cta h2 { font-size: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 3.75rem); max-width: 14em; }
.cta h2 em { color: var(--coral); }
.cta p:not(.eyebrow) { color: #C9C8D6; margin: 1.5rem 0 2rem; }

/* Contact */
.contact { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.1fr .9fr; gap: clamp(2rem, 6vw, 5rem); padding-bottom: clamp(3.5rem, 8vw, 6rem); align-items: start; }
form label { display: block; font: 500 .74rem var(--mono); letter-spacing: .09em; text-transform: uppercase; margin: 1.5rem 0 .4rem; }
form label:first-child { margin-top: 0; }
input, select, textarea { width: 100%; font: inherit; color: inherit; background: transparent; border: 0; border-bottom: 1.5px solid var(--ink); border-radius: 0; padding: .6rem 0; }
textarea { min-height: 7rem; resize: vertical; }
form .btn { border: 0; cursor: pointer; margin-top: 2rem; }
.email-big { font: 400 clamp(1.3rem, 2.6vw, 1.9rem) var(--serif); }

/* Footer */
.site-footer { background: var(--paper-2); padding: 3.5rem 0 1.5rem; font-size: .93rem; }
.foot { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.5fr 1fr 1fr; gap: 2.5rem; }
.foot .logo { margin-bottom: .8rem; }
.foot nav { display: grid; gap: .45rem; align-content: start; }
.foot nav a { text-decoration: none; }
.site-footer p { color: var(--ink-2); }
.fine { margin-top: 2.5rem; padding-top: 1.25rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.fine p { margin: 0; font-size: .85rem; }

@media (max-width: 1080px) {
  .bar { flex-wrap: wrap; row-gap: .5rem; }
  .bar-end { margin-left: auto; }
  .site-header nav { order: 3; width: 100%; margin: 0; overflow-x: auto; scrollbar-width: none; padding-bottom: .15rem; }
  .cards { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .cards a { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
}
@media (max-width: 800px) {
  .hero, .phrasebook-head, .phrases, .row, .contact, .foot { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .portrait { max-width: 24rem; }
  .portrait figcaption { left: .75rem; }
  .pillars, .posts { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .stats { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .btn-sm { padding: .45rem .7rem; font-size: .74rem; }
  .btn-sm::after { content: none; }
  .logo { font-size: 1rem; }
  .logo small { display: none; }
  /* Row 1: name + booking button. Row 2: scrolling nav + language switch. */
  .bar { gap: .75rem; }
  .bar-end { display: contents; }
  .bar .btn-sm { margin-left: auto; order: 1; }
  .site-header nav { order: 2; width: auto; flex: 1 1 calc(100% - 4.5rem); min-width: 0; }
  .lang { order: 3; }
}
@media (max-width: 480px) {
  .cards { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  *, *::before, *::after { animation: none !important; transition: none !important; }
  html { scroll-behavior: auto; }
}